September arrives and the Costa Brava changes its face. The tourists leave, the terraces are left with half their tables, the water is still at 24 degrees and the light — that end-of-summer light — tints the coves an orange that doesn't exist in July. If you can, visit the Costa Brava in autumn. It's when you truly understand why people here don't want to live anywhere else.
Why the Costa Brava in Autumn is Better
- The sea is still warm — in September the water is around 23-24°C. In October you can still swim.
- No crowds — you park where you want, the coves are yours, restaurants have tables.
- Lower prices — hotels and rentals drop 30-50% compared to July.
- Hiking is possible — the summer heat disappears and the GR-92 trails can be done without dying in the attempt.
The Best Plans in Autumn
Hiking in Cap de Creus
The Cap de Creus Natural Park has spectacular routes that are impractical in summer due to the heat. In autumn, the path from Cadaqués to Portlligat, or the route to the Cap de Creus lighthouse, can be done in unique light and tranquillity. Bring comfortable layered clothing — mornings are cool and midday can be sunny.
Kayaking the Northern Coves
The sea in autumn is calmer than in summer. It's the ideal time to go kayaking or paddleboarding and explore the coves only accessible from the water in Cap de Creus. Several local companies rent equipment until October.
Route Through the Villages of Alt Empordà
Cadaqués, Roses, L'Escala, Begur, Pals, Peratallada — the interior of the Costa Brava has a density of medieval villages per square kilometre that doesn't exist anywhere else in Spain. In autumn you can explore them without queues and with seasonal markets in full swing.
Wine Tourism in the Empordà
The DO Empordà produces wines that deserve more attention. The harvest is in September — many wineries hold open days. Worth investigating.
What to Wear on the Costa Brava in Autumn
- Cotton base t-shirt — for the midday heat.
- Organic cotton sweatshirt — for mornings and evenings on the terrace.
- Comfortable footwear — the historic centres of Cadaqués, Begur or Peratallada have cobblestones that show no mercy.
Our organic cotton sweatshirts are made exactly for this: a piece you wear at 8am on Cap de Creus and that at night, on a terrace in Cadaqués, is still perfect. And the t-shirts last season after season without losing their shape.
Where to Stay
In autumn prices drop across the Costa Brava. Cadaqués has everything from apartments in the old town to country houses in the Cap de Creus interior. Roses and L'Escala are more affordable alternatives with good connections throughout the area.